Have you ever been a-wassailing? I have been a-wassailing.
Yesterday I went to a wassail, in my capacity as a pretender to morris. There is a first time for everything.
There is a long-held British tradition of shouting until you get what you want. And this is where we have developed the timeless and un-rivalled technique for procuring large quantities of tasty alcoholic beverages. Singing for your supper and all that, standing caterwauling someone’s front door until pies appear, paying the morris men (as they did) in beer. It’s working for us, why break with tradition?
In the case of wassail, we sing to the trees.
The day for me was spent in the foreyard of a small pub somewhere in the vicinity of Sevenoaks. After a long (and chilly!) afternoon of dancing and laughing and the consuming of several pints of the large range of barrelled beers that were lined up along the bar, us morris lots were done and we began the wassail proper. Now, wassailing, as I have discovered, is a thing. We led a grand torch-lit procession down the road and into the orchard, where we proceeded with the rictual of blessing the trees, waking them from their winter slumber in the hopes of their yielding a fine crop for this year. A single tree is picked to be wassailed (big orchard and that). Turns out that they were pear trees, not apple as I had thought, but it’s all good.
So, there are parts to wassailing. And many of them are a little bit alarming, so the first thing we have to offer is a wee bit of bread for the birdies. Because if you want fertile soil, it’s important that the birds feel able to come sit in the branches and poop on your roots. Naturally, you invite them. So a few little bits are attached to one of the lower branches for them to spot in the morning.
When that’s done, the wassailing bowl is taken – a wide double-handled cup filled with the best steaming cider – and poured out in offering over the tree’s roots. Now, I maintain that this smacks of apple-tree cannibalism, but who am I to question working rictual? We followed our offering with the singing of a wassailing song, voices raised with a band of jolly accordion music, to serenade the tree. It was a thing of beauty, if not of great tunefulness.
The next bit of the blessing involves scaring the shit out of the tree and just about anyone within a five-mile radius. I do very much wonder what any passing stranger might have thought we were doing in a darkened orchard. So the man at the head took his musket and shot it into the air, and we followed by our crowd taking up our pipes, drums, sticks, hands and voices, and anything else lying about and made as much noise as was humanly possible. After that, the tree, indeed the orchard, was considered to be well woken for this spring, and any evil spirits with an ounce of sense will hopefully have flown from the racket. So we processed back in the dark to the sound of bagpipes (not traditional, but then our morris side isn’t very), and gravitated towards warm hearths and hearty drinks. Good times. It was a jolly way to spend a day.
The term wassail comes from the Old English wæs (þu) hæl – ‘be hearty’, ‘be whole’. Certainly, I think so.



